Salicylic Acid
Given its low pKa and small molecular size, salicylic acid demonstrates an easy, fast and deep penetration through the lipid barriers of the epidermis. Clinically, this results in excellent efficacy in the treatment of skin disorders that involve an overproduction of sebum and the appearance of vulgar acne. In fact, 30% salicylic acid is often considered the “Gold Medal” surface peel for the treatment of acne and has shown excellent clinical efficacy for the treatment of pimple-pustulous mild to moderate inflammatory acne and comedogenic acne.
Azelaic Acid
Chemically, azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid. It acts on the skin as a soft exfoliant without rinsing, which helps to unclog the pores and refine the surface of the skin. Azelaic acid also significantly reduces skin factors that cause sensitivity and imperfections and provides antioxidant benefits. Azelaic acid is a derivative of certain grain types such as barley, wheat, and rye, but it is the laboratory-designed form that is typically used in skin care products because of its stability and effectiveness.
Lactic Acid
It helps older, duller cells on the skin surface break off by dissolving the bonds that hold them together. Lactic acid accelerates and stimulates cell renewal. All alpha-hydroxyacids exfoliate and improve skin texture but lactic acid has an additional benefit that is not found in other AHAs. Lactic acid helps improve the skin’s natural hydration factor and how the skin stays hydrated. Basically, lactic acid helps keep your skin hydrated and feel less dry.
Mandelic Acid
It is a reference anti-aging ingredient in the world of skin care. It acts to accelerate cell renewal by dissolving the small bonds that hold skin cells together, helping to remove dead skin from the surface of the skin that can cause a dull complexion and marked wrinkles. It also strengthens collagen, one of the building blocks of the skin support network that gives it firmness and a smooth appearance. A higher rate of detachment thins the outermost layer of skin called the stratum corneum. A thinner stratum corneum better reflects light and makes the skin look smoother and more youthful. Mandeliac acid and other alpha-hydroxyacids generally soften the appearance of expression lines, wrinkles, and improve skin texture.
Malic Acid
Naturally derived from apples, malic acid is probably the least known of the commonly used ingredients for skin care. Like AHA, it also stimulates the cellular renewal rate of the skin and can stimulate the production of collagen. Malic acid can also reduce melanin production, helping to prevent and improve hyperpigmentation.
Pyruvic Acid
The smallest alpha-ketoacid is structurally a carboxylic acid with a functional ketone rest. It has lipophilic and keratolytic properties similar to those of salicylic acid, but has less lipophilicity. It is also partially hydrophilic, which gives it properties of both salicylic acid and glycolic acid. Clinically, pyruvic acid exfoliations have been shown to be effective in the treatment of vulgar acne and associated sebum overproduction disorders, as well as mild photoaging and superficial hyperpigmentation. It is commonly used as a superficial exfoliating agent for inflammatory and comedogenic acne
Phytic Acid
It is a natural alpha-hydroxyacid whose field of application extends from the hydration of the skin, the reduction of wrinkles to the deep exfoliation of the skin. It acts by inducing exfoliation in our skin and accelerating the natural cycle of skin cell rejuvenation. AHAs improve the texture of the skin and reduce the signs of aging by promoting cell detachment in the outer layers of the epidermis and restoring hydration. Phytic acid has been shown to be an effective chemical exfoliant for the treatment of melasma and acne.
Ferulic Acid
It has been shown to combat the negative effects of several free radicals, including superoxide, nitric oxide and hydroxyl radical. Free radicals are one of the main reasons people see skin that ages prematurely, including wrinkles under the eyes and lines of expression.
Kojic Acid
It acts on melanocytes by exerting an inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis: it blocks the transformation of L-tyrosine (amino acid precursor to melanin) by suppressing free tyrosinase, mainly by chelation of the copper ion. By inhibiting the synthesis of melanin, kojic acid acts as a potent depigmenting agent, as it favors a gradual decrease of the dark spots of the skin, reducing cellular deterioration caused by excessive sun exposure
Pure Glycolic Acid
Active with several properties, among which the hydration acquires greater importance. One of its main functions is water retention, thanks to which it can immobilize the dermal water. In this way, the cells manage to maintain their turgor and elasticity. It is an anti-aging active that participates in two vital processes of the cell: division and proliferation. A perfect cell renewal is an essential process to combat aging.
Citric Acid
It can remove dead skin cells and speed up the renewal of new cells. Exfoliates the upper layers of the skin and removes dead skin cells. In addition, the
speed of cell renewal increases, which promotes the growth of new skin that can help relieve the appearance of age spots, acne scars, small wrinkles and areas with uneven tone and texture.
Other Ingredients
Argireline
A peptide designed to act on the muscle contraction mechanism that targets the same protein complex as the botulinum toxin, modulating muscle contraction. This ingredient is the safest proven effective active in destabilizing the SNARE complex (responsible for muscle contraction), reducing the formation of wrinkles and minimizing the depth, volume and length of existing wrinkles and expression lines, as well as skin roughness. The study showed that after 7 days the peptide reduced the volume and mean length of wrinkles by 20.6% and 15.9% respectively. After 28 days of treatment, the depth of wrinkles was reduced by an average of 27% and the roughness of the skin by 20.4%.
Shea Butter
It is a superfood for the skin that comes from the seeds of the fruit of the shea tree and that is naturally rich in vitamins A, E and F. It provides the skin with essential fatty acids and nutrients necessary for collagen. Shea butter has several derivatives of cinnamic acid that exhibit anti-inflammatory properties. These properties make it beneficial for the improvement of skin conditions that result from an increase in inflammatory reactions. Generalized inflammatory conditions such as dermatitis and rosacea can be alleviated by using shea butter
Oat Extract
Oatmeal creates a web that covers the skin by interacting with lipids in the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of skin. These interactions are maintained once the product is absorbed, creating a film with a lifting effect on the skin
Rose Hip Oil
It is a vegetable oil with great properties for aesthetic medicine. Its composition with numerous essential fatty acids (omega 6, omega 3 and linoleic acid), antioxidants and vitamins (retinol – vitamin A, vitamin C and vitamin E) make it an essential ally in the fight against signs of skin ageing.
Chamomile Extract
It has stimulating effect on collagen biosynthesis, firming action and activator of the blood circulation of the skin.
Liquorice Extract
Indicated for the treatment of aged skin, it is a millennial natural active in anti-aging treatments.
Plantago Lanceolata Extract
It is used as an astringent, anti-inflammatory, immunoregulatory, antispasmodic, expectorant, emollient and antibacterial for cuts, contusions and abscesses. These pharmacological properties are due to its complex chemical composition: iridoid glycosides, polysaccharides (plantaglucide, glucomannon), terpenoids, coumarins, lignans, caffeine derivatives, polysaccharides, flavonoids, flavone glycosides and other constituents such as allantoin.
Rosemary Extract
Thanks to the phenolic diterpenes it contains, it is considered a powerful natural antioxidant. It has the ability to inhibit the oxidation of the cell membrane, making our skin well preserved.
Vitamin F
Suitable for very delicate skin, it stands out for its intense and durable moisturizing power; it improves the elasticity of the skin for its nutritional properties and is a vital component of cell membranes.
Berberis Aquifolium Extract
It is used to treat skin conditions such as pimples, dryness, scaly skin, and scalp rashes that extend to the face and neck. Berberis aquifolium extract also
treats psoriasis, acne, eczema, pruritus and glandular induration. It also improves nutrition by stimulating all glands. It is used to improve the complexion of the face.
Liposome Growth Factors
Growth factors are natural proteins found in our plasma that perform a number of tasks to maintain a healthy structure of the skin by promoting cell regeneration; they stimulate growth, the proliferation and differentiation of epidermis cells. When our skin is young it has great powers of recovery, but as we age our levels of growth factors are exhausted, which leads to our skin having more difficulties to repair the damage and visible signs of aging. These natural proteins that play a fundamental role in maintaining the firmness and elasticity of the skin are encapsulated in the form of liposomes, a system that allows creating a lipid barrier around the cosmetic actives enhancing their effectiveness thanks to their ability to protect and vehicle the actives, allowing them to penetrate more deeply into the dermis.
Niacinamide
It is one of the most powerful anti-inflammatory ingredient in the world of beauty, so it is a great ally for people with acne, rosacea, hypersensitivity or irritable skin. It relaxes on the spot the skin and is a great amplifier of other actives. In addition, it is a stain eraser, able to block the movement of pigments from one cell to another and prevent hyperpigmentation, since it is a great antioxidant that protects from free radicals such as pollution or sun radiation. Being a water-soluble vitamin and possessing a low molecular weight, it favours the penetration of other cosmetic actives. It is also naturally stable and helps skin protect itself and control its own fat production.
Centella Asiatica Extract
It has a stimulating effect of collagen biosynthesis, in addition to being firming for the skin and activating blood circulation.
Vitamin C
It is an antioxidant, very important active that plays a vital role in the fight against dark spots. In addition, vitamin C has excellent anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties. It helps inhibit the enzyme tyrosinase, which helps prevent melanin production. In addition, it significantly lightens pigmentation even in normal skin. Vitamin C is one of the most valuable elements for healthy and radiant skin!
Alpha-arbutin
Medical research has shown that arbutin is very effective in the treatment of hyperpigmentation, age spots and can also inhibit the negative effects of UV radiation thanks to its sun protection properties. Arbutin unifies skin tone and is also effective in treating acne scars. Some studies have also shown that arbutin (alpha arbutin) can help treat redness of the skin known as erythema.
Retinol
It acts to increase cell renewal, stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, attenuate hyperpigmentation and help the skin stay hydrated and radiant without irritation. Thanks to all this essential renewal, retinol has a great capacity for action, from reducing persistent cystic acne and eczema to eliminating wrinkles and dark spots induced by the sun.
pH Regulator
A cosmetic complex that acts immediately on the dermis to return the skin to its neutral pH naturally. Gluconolactone It is a less potent exfoliant than lactic acid, but is softer for the skin, as it is a larger molecule and consequently penetrates the skin more slowly.
Iris Extract
It acts as an anti-aging agent, antioxidant, photoprotective, purifying and antiseptic. It is extracted from the roots of Iris Florentina L. It is rich in flavonoids that prevent the formation in vivo of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and organic hydroperoxide. Therefore, it protects the integrity of the skin and hair against the oxidative process.
Zinc
It helps repair damaged tissues and improve cellular wounds. Like vitamins, minerals are essential for overall health and development, helping the body develop. Some research suggests that zinc is particularly effective in treating topical irritations and lesions, such as acne, skin sores, and minor wounds, by helping cells to regenerate.
Phloretin
It is 100% vegetable origin. It is a polyphenol extracted from the apple. It has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging and antiglication properties. It enhances the penetration of other actives as it favours the formation of channels in the cell membranes.
Whitening Complex
It is a scientifically proven cosmetic complex which acts at different levels: it reduces the activity of tyrosinase, even before the synthesis of melanin is induced, and produces a decrease of melanin in the skin.